Birdwatching in Bundi #2 – dinner with the Maharaja

Mon 3^rd August – After our lovely afternoon sipping beer & snapping bird photos we were introduced to the 'manager' of the resort. We thought he was a businessman starting up a new venture but it soon became apparent that he was the owner of the place & most of the land around in all directions, if not the lake too… He was dressed in a plain shirt & a pair of alarmingly brief white tennis shorts but was a good 6 inches taller than everyone else & quite heavy set. We probably should have picked him as an aristo from the shape/trim/curl/waxing of his moustache but that takes a lifetime of study. The give-away was when one of the paddy field workers came to talk to him. He approached from the side, head bowed, he bent to touch the seated man's feet & was about to kiss them when the raja motioned no. The farmer (serf?) kissed his hand & touched his lord's feet instead. That's feudal Rajastan c2009.

Maharajah Rajendra Singh of Dugari seemed a nice enough chap, jowly looking like a cross between Charles de Gaulle & Fred Flintstone he effortlessly managed the conversation & the evening.

He'd asked Ramesh, whom he'd known for sometime apparently, to prepare masala fish curry in a pot over an open fire so we could all sit around & watch. Ramesh was clearly pleased with the honour & displayed an almost tender respect for the other man.

The funniest parts were the Rajah's description of the cooking process "this is the difficult bit" he said as a selection of spices were tossed into the pot, as if he'd ever had to do it himself. Moments later we asked about the name of a particular ingredient & he seemed to ignore us & got on his mobile, a minute or two later he announced "corriaaander! My wife says it's called corriaaander!". A 24hr translation service.

After the meal was cooked the classes separated which was a shame. We, the only guests, ate by candlelight in the middle of the lawn with 3 waiters anticipating our every need. The Rajah ate with his cronys around the fire & Ramesh & the other less well bred retired a polite distance away. No photos of the raj alas but here's us feeling silly…